New Terrain Projects

Well here's the WIP shot of the dungeon entrance as promised.

I began construction on another bloodbowl pitch yesterday. All the feild marks were cut in with my rotary tool and the surface painted with black base coat before being textured with stone spray paint. I have been taking WIP Pictures and will write it up fully on my website. I will post pics and links later.

Its awesome. It doesnt look too out of scale and with cunning layering you can get realy nice effects.

First time I used this I blasted the can up real close, it takes longer to dry but gives a thicker texture. Since then I have changed my ways. I will explain my new process.

1. Base coat. Prime the target area black (or some other colour). this will have an impact on the final result as the stone effect paint isn't 100% coverage unless you blast from 10cm away.

2. Hold the stone effects about 40-50 cm away and start spraying. just dusted it on all over. linger or respray some areas to get slight variations in the colour.

3. Since I am working with grey and black stone effects I take a tin of white spray undercoat and spray it so that the mist hits the table, the idea being to lighten and highlight areas to get rid of the 'uniform' tone of the stone. The whole idea of this step is like dry brusing but with a spray can.

4. repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have a nice 'motteled' surface colour.

Stone effects takes longer to dry and leaves the surface quite bumpy.

That was going to be my comment - it doesn't actually glue! I bought a couple of bottles once, still got most of it. I found i couldn't dilute it easily either, it was all stringy and lumpy. I never would have thought there was so much variance in PVAs, I prefer selley's myself, and not that expensive if you buy the bigger containers.

Yup it does eat through foam, its like a thin spray paint with chunks of different paint in it, its hard to tell . I asked the company rep how it was done but he didn't know.

If you want to seal foam the cheapest and best way is to hit the warehouse up and buy their cheap as house paint. Its good enough for about $10 a liter or something.One thing with that though is that latex paints (acrylic house paints) are soft when dried, whilst enamels (spray) are hard. This means there is a chance the enamel may crack. But since spray coats are thinner I have not seen this problem yet.

If you want glues that wont melt foam, Fullers make a spray adhesive that wont melt it, and works freat on card and paper stock. its great for flock and static grass, take about as long as pva to dry and you will get a good 3-4 square meters of coverage I can is enough to do a full 4x6 table with left overs.

If you need a more heavy duty glue, Gorilla glue is a champ. its 100% glue, that means no thinners. All that means the glue doesnt melt foam or shrink as it dries, infact it absorbs a little moisture and expands (kinda like expanding foam (but not). It forms a bond so strong that wood will break off around the glue. You do need to clamp things together though as the ever so slight foaming action will float the two surfaces and they may drift apart.

On my board each square is 30mm.

A regulation pitch is 15 x 26. making the actual pitch in the picture 450mm x 780mm
The whole board that pitch is on is larger than that with enough room for 20mm of edging frame and 55mm from the inside of the frame to the pitch. the dugout board (coloured white piece of mdf) is about 560 x 150. the dugouts will be masked off, sprayed black before a few good coats of gloss varnish.

For more random hard to find info on bloodbowl I have created this page
totalwargames.co.nz/gw-specialist-games/blood-bowl/bloodbowl-knowledge-base/

Thats looking awesome, it gets a +10 style factor for the column caps. Dunno if its me or the photo but is the ground floors to trim a little crooked above the door ?