|
|
Post by Slipher on Mar 22, 2006 12:36:45 GMT 12
Could someone pease tell me how to achieve a weathered stone kinda look like on an old statue or something?i seam to remember reading about it somewhere once but i can't remember it.
Also does anyone know how to do bullet impacts,again like on a statue or something made from stone?
|
|
|
|
Post by c0d3monk33 on Mar 22, 2006 13:34:21 GMT 12
Weathered stone...hmmm...what colours were you thinking of? I'm just about to try for a weathered white marble effect myself (like you see on old churches in Italy)...I'll post the recipe if I can find one that works! For statues the other option is bronze or metallic. Games Workshop have a good tutorial about that style of painting here. Hey they even mention a 'sandstone' scheme which sounds like it could work... Bullet holes...well again I've just tried making these myself...but in actual plaster blocks. I think they turned out ok...but it's hard to tell without painting them! All I did was drill a shallow 2mm hole in the plaster and chip around the edges with an Xacto knife. |
|
|
|
Post by PitYak Studios on Mar 22, 2006 14:04:35 GMT 12
Depending what material you want your holes in, and what sort of holes you want, there's a few methods you could try.
If you're using styrene, try putting a blob of cement (the tube stuff, no the liquid in bottles) on the surface, then when it's soft bore a hole with a pin.
Do like stu says for plaster. That method works well on plastic too.
Bear in mind what has caused the holes to; a huge high explosve shell will make a different hole to a rifle bullet. Bullets tend to create small entry holes and larger exit holes. So if you were trying to simulate a hole in a wooden wall for instance, the entry hole would be quite small and clean, but on the inside large splinters of wood would be torn off around the hole. (This was one of the theories of old style ship warfare - fire a cannon at your opponent's gun deck, and the shot might not cause much damge to the crews behind, but the flying bits off wood stripped off the inside would decapitate and maim anyone in the way).
I generally go for the drill and knife method for larger impact marks, just a knife point twisted in the surface for smaller impacts, the glue for heat weapon or explosives on (simulated) metal surfaces.
I read a post on another board recently where this guy sprinkled gunpowder on his plastic kits then lit it. I wouldn't recommend that personally.
|
|
|
|
Post by burbsee on Mar 22, 2006 15:44:04 GMT 12
This was one of the theories of old style ship warfare - fire a cannon at your opponent's gun deck, and the shot might not cause much damge to the crews behind, but the flying bits off wood stripped off the inside would decapitate and maim anyone in the way i think that also applied to tanks in ww1 they would just pound em with machine gun bullets they themselves would not go through the thick armour but would casue flakes of metal inside the tank to fly around like shrapnel inside the tank quickly killing the crew-a rather nasty way to go dont you think? for weathered stone i go with a choas black undercoat and drybrush up from a dark grey gradualy adding more codex grey and eventually white very lightly then give the whole thing a very watery wash of either black or brown to darken it down.i vary the amount of codex grey and white dependng on how dark you want your stone to look.bllet wholes i have never done but from what i have red and seen i would go with pityaks idea! |
|
|
|
Post by burbsee on Mar 22, 2006 15:45:57 GMT 12
although the drybrushing only really works well and quickly on textured surfaces :-)
|
|
|
|
Post by Slipher on Mar 23, 2006 15:19:57 GMT 12
Well its gonna be on some figures(a ranger,banshee and guardian)that I'm planning on using as statues,so dry-brushing should be OK
|
|
|
|
Post by Slipher on Mar 23, 2006 15:20:40 GMT 12
how would you do bullet impacts on metal figures?
|
|
|
|
Post by PitYak Studios on Mar 23, 2006 15:44:22 GMT 12
I would use a drill in a pin vice, and give it a couple of turns on the surface, so only the angled tip of the drill comes into contact, not the edges of the drill. If you want the hole deeper, use a smaller drill do turn a hole in the centre of this larger hole. Sort of lke countersinking in reverse. Does that make sense?
///////////> <- If that's your drill, drill only deep enough to let the pointy bit to the work. That should give you a conical shaped hole.
Does that make less sense now?
|
|
|
|
Post by Slipher on Mar 27, 2006 12:28:56 GMT 12
Yep that's clear as mud ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by Slipher on Mar 27, 2006 12:31:01 GMT 12
yeah I get what you mean but um........what's a pinvice exactly?
(exactly being the operative word)
|
|
|
|
Post by PitYak Studios on Mar 27, 2006 12:33:06 GMT 12
|
|
|
|
Post by c0d3monk33 on Mar 27, 2006 12:39:07 GMT 12
That's a nice looking pin vice...but it's a bit pricy imho. I picked up a single ended 4-chuck pin vice for around $16 from a model railway store from memory. Hmmm... mind you I guess 2 x $16 is $32  . Pin vices are an absolutely *invaluable tool* for a modeller. I'd put them next to a scalpel with a really sharp blade! You should definitely pick one up slipher. Great for drilling out gun barrels for starters... |
|
|
|
Post by Slipher on Mar 27, 2006 12:39:23 GMT 12
Hmmmmm OK.Do you realy nead one?
|
|
|
|
Post by PitYak Studios on Mar 27, 2006 12:44:15 GMT 12
I've got a single ended one too, is yours a proedge? if so these are a lot nicer. and the seller you can trust, too.
|
|
|
|
Post by Slipher on Mar 27, 2006 14:23:08 GMT 12
I don't actually have one that's why I asked:-(
|
|
.