A bunch of newbie questions

If I'm varnishing a figure it's generally because it's going to be handled, so I'm not too concerned about the finish, just want a hard coat. Citadel acrylic if it needs to be really hard and gloss isn't a problem, otherwise humbrol matt enamel, but I've still not had much luck getting a matt finish with that. I use the crystal kote matt too, on practically everything, but I'm not convinced it actually has much effect. I always bomb over decals with it just to be safe. Bendy plastic figures get pva coated, and in fact pva isn't bad as a cheap coating for any figures; not too gloss and quite flexible. I'm experimenting with different weird varnishes at the minute, like circuit board laqcuer.

Like the varnish, when it comes to undercoat I don't go for model shop brands. With most hobby materials and equipment, I will always try and get the equivalent product elsewher, the logic being it's usually cheaper and better. Paint is a good example. Undercoat (actually primer in this sense) needs a few basic properties, such as adhering to the substrate and providing a good painting surface. Citadel and tamiya and whoever's stuff is fine, and has obviously been selected and refined over the years to suit the job in hand, but I reckon why not go and see the people who really know about paint. So I hit the car shops and try all the auto enamel primers. The name of my favourite escapes me now, but it's just initials, I know that much A good black auto primer will give you a grippy surface that helps alleviate the hassles we were talking about in the other forum. I use a very pale grey when I'm not using black.

I have a bit of a mixed approach to brushes. I usually have a couple of decent ones, a 3 and a 2 that I use for laying down base coats and detailing. My painting style is pretty unforgiving on brushes though, so I go through a lot of cheap ones. Those packs of four for about $8 from whitcoulls and places, and das synthetics for about $3 - 4 each. I keep these graded, and will quickly pass them down the grades as they wear. I'll start using for fine work, then as soon the tip goes relegate it maybe to inking, then as things get worse they are used for metallics, scrubbing, stippling dry brushing and what have you. (Actually I usually have "good" metallic brush that doesnt get for anything else). My "decent " brushes aren't necessarily expensive, just ones I've found which do the job. Sable is my favourite, but I'm finding I use more and more synthetics, and they getting a lot better. I always have a few flat brushes, for laying down large areas, doing stright lines and stuff like that.

I never have plain water in my studio except for cleaning my brushes. I have a stock solution of klear and water 1:6 and that is used for all my dilutions, whether a couple of drops to some thick paint, or the thinnest ink wash. I've never found a problem with the smell of klear, but then I have no sense of smell. I've used washing liguid too, and windscreen washer fluid, which I think is very good. Good also for adding to pva if you use it to seal your groundwork; makes it "wetter" so it soaks in easier.

On the thick paint / thin paint thing, while it's not a subject you can really summarise, I would say I tend to slap it on thick on "toy soldiers" and user thinner paint and inks on display figures. For toy soldier style figures the thick paint helps cover the dark base, and the idea is not to create a realistic looking figure anyway. With display figures I'll go for thinner washes. So if I was painting something like your 15mms, I would go for a dark base coat, and hope to get everything done in two coats max.

The 'Klear' or 'Clear' (stupid Trademark lawyers!) works to reduce the natural surface tension of water. This means if you use it to dilute your inks you'll find you get less of problems with 'pooling' on flat surfaces once the ink is dry. I find it also tends to stay in the cracks and fine detail more.

Another advantage I find with 'Klear' is that it makes for quite a robust ink layer (presumably because it's floor wax) which can easily and safely be painted over once fully dry. I found prior to using 'Clear' that often ink washes would bubble or generally react badly to being over-painted.

The spray kote flat enamel black I'm using would probably give you exactly the same finish on your table. Being enamel it's pretty hardy though. Is your table fading or is the colour rubbing off? I've never noticed? Maybe an enamel interior paint would be more hard wearing?

HHHHAHAHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHA :lol:

I believe nuart is the brand but it was (is) made by atsco australia pty. ltd

its ozone friendly (hydrocarbon propellant has been made since 1975 and has a smiley face at the bottom of the can, its a terracotta and white can the bigest words are

picture
varnish
matt

nuart is near the to of the can red inside a black 'a'

it can be used on acrylic or oil paints and as per the instructions 2 coats work best.

I have sprayed it on litchen without worries.

if it goes on to thick it can take the flufflynesst out of flock (not so good) but thats the same with anything really

I know I seen it recently in auckland, I dont often go into art stores but when I do I reckonize the can almost imediately.

you should NEVER inhale varnish, we all know in this hobby its almost unavoidable. However this one smells a lot nicer than most spray cans I have used.

the price tickets gone and inflation may have changed things but I think I got it for about $14

cheers for that

Oh god thats funny. Does it disturb you that after this many messages people hadn't clicked? altho I must admit after your last post about RPG computer games I was thinking "oh my god this chick thinks just like a guy?!"

Ah well, that means I still dont know of any females that actually play war games...

Ok well thats useful info. I'll definately try out those suggestions. Sounds like Im not too far off the mark with most things but a bit of tweaking might make all the difference!

I dunno about the glue adding much weight but any reason why you've chosen not to go with the traditional PVA?

Yet another question.
when people are mixing paint etc what do you use to get the quantities right? ie 1:3 one what to 3 whats? obviously I can use almost anything but what gives a useful amount of paint? an eye dropper?