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Post by c0d3monk33 on Jun 16, 2007 20:05:57 GMT 12
These have been kicking around my paint station for a while now: 28mm scale Pulp luggage and hat-box:  They're the masters I hope to mold and cast in one sided molds using two part resins. I want to use a handful of them for game objectives. Anybody know a white metal casting service in New Zealand because I'd love to mass produce them. Although of course that would require me to re-master them entirely in green stuff as I suspect plasticard and bamboo offcuts wouldn't stand up to high temperature vulcanisation! I had also planned to master a 'travelling chest' type affair but haven't got around to it yet. A carpet bag would be good too... |
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Post by dustand on Jun 17, 2007 11:13:40 GMT 12
I had called a couple up one was well south and the other I think was nearer to your suburb... i will try and find their details but if you do a google search in new zealand for "auckland casting" there will be a couple... they will want you to come in probably so they can show you the limitations...
they would need to be remastered in GS, although you you might get away with pushing GS into your molds.
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Post by PitYak Studios on Jun 18, 2007 10:20:33 GMT 12
You should be able to cast them inmetal yourself, not that different to casting with resin.
What's the figure?
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Jun 18, 2007 13:48:12 GMT 12
High temperature silicon I can probably get from TopMark, but where does one get white metals from in NZ? Also what do you use to melt your metals in? A crucible I assume, but what's your heat source? You do your own white metal casting don't you Phil? Any chance you can induct me into the guild? It's times like these I regret the fact you live in Wellie and I live in Auckland! Not tempted to move at all  The figure is from Copplestone Castings, their Back of Beyond range I believe. They have a whole box of nice 'Adventuress' type figures. I was going to go with a Rachel Wiess type paint job ala the Mummy, but thought a fiery red-head would be more fun. |
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Post by PitYak Studios on Jun 18, 2007 13:58:41 GMT 12
Thought it looked like a copplestone. Nice hair too; reheads are about the only hair colour I can pull off convincingly, which is quite handy considering all the highlanders I'm painting at the minute.
Yep, I do metal casting. Topmark sell metals aswell as rubbers, but you might want to try out some foundries, they can usually supply the same stuff cheaper. Somewhere, I believe it was on the Prince August site, there is a list of different alloys you can use, and ways of altering more common metals to make them suitable (things like pure lead, solder and old bullets) - my own favourite is wheel balancing weights. They are generally free (since you find them lying on the road) and I have got mountains of the stuff!
Melting isn't that tricky, I use a blacksmith's ladle, but just about any metal pot that isn't going to melt itself will do the trick.
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Jun 18, 2007 14:56:12 GMT 12
I do like Copplestone's figures. They're quite simple but well-proportioned and easy to paint!
What are you using the heat the metal up? Butane torch? Or something else? What temperature does pewter normally melt at? Pretty low eh (it is after all the oldest worked metal apparently)?
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Post by PitYak Studios on Jun 18, 2007 15:04:02 GMT 12
I use or have used a variety of methods; butane torch, gas barbecue, gas and electric stoves, any source of heat really. You can actually get some sorts of alloys that melt at under 100 deg, and the sellers claim you can use cardboard for molds (although why you'd want to I don't know)
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Jun 18, 2007 20:47:05 GMT 12
Hmmm, cardboard molds and molten metals? Sounds like the recipe for a small messy garage fire So what's white metal like to work with? Do you still have issues with air bubbles or not? I guess so since you need venting holes etc. How long before you can de mold the pieces safely? Hours? A day? Do you do any kind of spin casting? Or just static pours into two part molds? |
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Post by PitYak Studios on Jun 18, 2007 21:13:49 GMT 12
I just dop straight pours. you do still have air bubble hassles, but not so much; the weight of the metal as you pour it gets it into the extremities better than resin. Depending what you are doing it's in the order of minutes to demold. super quick, generally reliable and any rejects just get chucked back in, as does any flash or sprue. Just not going to get quite the detail you can with resin. (well, you probably can, but it's beyond me)
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Jun 19, 2007 8:11:01 GMT 12
More and more intriguing Phil. I wouldn't call these luggage pieces particularly high detail, it's just the undercuts that might be problematic. Do you treat your molds with anything prior to pouring (err like baby talc for resin) or just leave them au naturale for metal pours? I should have a good look around Prince August's site...see if they have any decent tutorials. Then I can leave you in peace |
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Post by PitYak Studios on Jun 19, 2007 8:38:23 GMT 12
do that - it's an excellent site for info, it can be hard to find, but there is a lot of good stuff o their site. but no, no talc or anything else.
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