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Post by c0d3monk33 on Aug 21, 2005 15:54:51 GMT 12
Unfortunately I don't do a lot of resin casting so my resin tends to linger around in the garage for a good year before it's used up. It doesn't seem to age too badly but my last lot did get a little nasty (incredibly short working times) before I threw the dregs out.
Have you noticed one of the parts tends to separate into 'clumps' if you keep it in the fridge though? I saw this in my last lot of resin but I think this is just a factor of aging however I was wondering if it had been caused by temperature changes.
I do like resin...it's just too expensive to justify casting much in unfortunately. Hence my fetish for Ultracal 30.
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Post by dustand on Aug 21, 2005 17:31:48 GMT 12
Wow look at you to go, I am gunna compile this thread into a little black book of casting =] Thank you for all the tips...
I cant think of anything else to use as floor, I want it to be strong, portable and not flexable, I also would want to cut it easy or glue things together...
If i could find 208 pre cut, non warping 48mm squares that are 6 mm thick. (50mm means a redesign but thats ok as I havent built anything yet) for about 20 dollars (10 cents each sounds a good price). well that could work
need a drop saw and a circular saw... then I could cut em out of mdf
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Post by PitYak Studios on Aug 21, 2005 20:58:22 GMT 12
I used to I worry about my resin ageing till I read that, but I've never had a bottle open for more than a week. So no, I guess I haven't noticed one part seperating yet!  |
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Aug 22, 2005 8:28:39 GMT 12
Heh, it's actually worse than that! The last batch of resin I purchased I picked up from a nameless hobby store in New Market. I paid my $30 and got it home only to notice it had been sitting on thier shelves for a year ALREADY so had expired (there was a date stamped on the box somewhere)! However I still used 90% of it over the NEXT year to cast stuff. So the shelf life is probably pretty good as long as you don't just leave the bottles open for weeks on end . We should force Dustan to give us a copy of his thread summary in html form and post it somewhere useful . I've already recommended at least one other person to come here and read up on these tips. |
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Post by PitYak Studios on Aug 22, 2005 8:44:44 GMT 12
There are other good forums for molding and casting, but since we're here we are kind of stuck with ultrasil, procast and easycast, so we need our own source of tips.
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Post by PitYak Studios on Aug 22, 2005 11:49:34 GMT 12
For estimating the amount of RTV I need to fill a mold I actually use good old beach sand (a couple of 2L coke bottles from Whangamata). why do you use sand? why not just water? |
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Post by dustand on Aug 22, 2005 12:51:35 GMT 12
Sand is dry and comes off easier than that tiny bit of moisture hiding in that little detail? If its OK with you two (being there all your ideas) I will compile it up and do a bit of a how too for my web page (which doesnt exist yet but its trying to  |
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Aug 22, 2005 13:01:21 GMT 12
Yeah Dustan's got it. I'm usually in such a hurry I want to estimate, mix and start pouring in the 10 minutes or so. Water would be a bit of a hassle to clean up surely? Sand is a bit of a hassle I admit but brushes off easily. Do you blast away the water with compressed air perhaps? And Dustan I was kinda taking the piss regarding compiling notes ...you're welcome to do whatever you like with any tips I may or may not have contributed to this discussion! I must however insist that you post lots of WIP photos somewhere I can view them...and possibly let me play a game of Space Hulk or two once you've finished the terrain  . |
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Post by PitYak Studios on Aug 22, 2005 13:25:28 GMT 12
I would have thought sand was much worse for cleaning up. Water just takes abit of fore thought - I would fill it with weater a good long while before I planned to pour rubber in then let it dry naturally. I would be much more concerned about having sand trapped in a nook than water.
That said, I've only ever measured accurately a couple of times. Guess work's good enough, especially when you are doing several molds at a time (and doing each one in stages) so I rarely bother.
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Post by Aaron on Aug 22, 2005 16:54:02 GMT 12
Wow look at you to go, I am gunna compile this thread into a little black book of casting =]need a drop saw and a circular saw... then I could cut em out of mdf I can help you with a drop saw (provided my old man hasn't gone and given it away when I told him not to!) but not a circular saw. |
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Post by Aaron on Aug 22, 2005 16:54:59 GMT 12
need a drop saw and a circular saw... then I could cut em out of mdf I can help you with a drop saw (provided my old man hasn't gone and given it away when I told him not to!) but not a circular saw. |
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Post by dustand on Aug 22, 2005 17:31:23 GMT 12
Its OK if your taking the piss, I am trying to build a web page I would want to go visit. A total package sort of place. I get frustrated going to websites that places say 'best online resource for' [insert army name]. and all it is is a copy of the codex grey stuff, a collection of art from GW and sometimes a few dozen pics of models.
I'm not likely to do to many mold making projects (Thats what I say now) and certainly only one spacehulk project so it would pay for me to keep it well organised and documented. It helps me with the planning and buys me enough time for WIP shots... usually I get the creative buzz and dont stop for anything.
one of my cheif concerns is that I wont leave enough scope for customizing my hulk, I dont realy want dozens of identicle wall panels with archtype problems. The only concerns that have croped up are terminators are on bigger bases and genestealers arms are even bigger than the bases so the hulk is at least 50% bigger than card tiles (maybe to big for a dining table =[ )
I did work something cool out though.
If I buy a Brood lord and a box of new genestealers, then I have enough models to make a 1500 pt pure genestealer army. 65 stealers and a brood lord =] YAY
The absolute coolest part is I will buy the models soon, spray all of them white then spend a day with my Girl painting the base coloursand dip them all. I am going to go ULTRA minimal on the bases, just plain old codex grey, no grass, no rubble, no hassels. Whilst I will have a 1500 pt army its mostly because for $70ish I can have a 4th army. not a big cost, but these models are for spacehulk... And hell yeah we can have a few games.
Does anyone have any previous edition plastic terminators they want to sell? I converted 5 of mine and NEED a few more default armed units...
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Post by dustand on Aug 22, 2005 17:37:49 GMT 12
Aaron: I will be looking into mdf floor tiles, check with yer old man and if he hasnt then I am one power tool away from saving mone on RTV. Though to put the truth out, i would rather cast them. Saves on labour (measuring, cutting and detailing), saves on cross stitch grating (shush I know its cheap and if god forbid anyone else wanted a set it saves me having to round up tools and materials. never the less there are always good uses for drop saws, you should pursuade your old man to give it to you |
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Post by PitYak Studios on Aug 22, 2005 18:50:42 GMT 12
And if you need a circular saw, like I said the other day I have a good source for all tools (all regular type tools, not modelling specific ones sadly)
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Aug 22, 2005 20:20:43 GMT 12
Sounds good! And I bet once you've discovered how easy it is to create molds and how damned useful they turn out to be you won't just stop at Space Hulk ... oh no The thing that really peeves me about 99% of the modelling pages you find on the web is they're almost exclusively about using products you find in Mainland USA. That's why I was so stoked to find this forum...and why I post so regularly and comprehensively . If I'd stumbled across this thread when I was first learning to mold stuff I'm sure it would have saved me several heartbreaking failures and some expensive product! Speaking of molding I'm off to the garage to mold the last three pieces I need to complete my modular trenches... |
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