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Post by c0d3monk33 on Nov 7, 2005 8:02:57 GMT 12
Yeah they're looking great! How are you sculpting the fur? That's going to paint really damned well I reckon...
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Post by dustand on Nov 7, 2005 8:26:23 GMT 12
I used my sharpend straight tweaser. I read some things online and it said you should put little pits of putty on randomly and sculpt each patch of fur in a different direction, that didnt work for me and just took to long so I bunged on all the putty to make into fur and then went for gold. just pick a spot and start working from there. work from the end of the fur (bottom) back towards the start (top), part or what ever. its kinda a push the putty up, pull the putty down and push the putty around... it took me about 60 minutes in total to do all that fur and a little bit on the wrists, I was stoked with its look as its my first go at fur =] I been doing a lot of firsts lately Here is some more of the Hunter, almost done. As propised I have snaped about 40 pictures of my work in progres... over the weekend I cut and sculpted like mad and after about 10 hours work I came up with these. in regards to the tutorial I am just trying to figure out if I should start a new topic or make it a web page and host it somewhere.
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Nov 7, 2005 13:24:35 GMT 12
Ahhh nice work on the wrist too! I was wondering how the heck you were going to hide that huge gap. Adding that fur hasn't lengthend the arm too much though has it? Hard to say from the photos.
I'm quite tempted to try some fur sculpture now...I've always wanted some nice 28mm scale angry rats that I can cast in resin in a one sided mold.
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Post by dustand on Nov 7, 2005 13:51:12 GMT 12
they were huge gaps, I built it first without fur but it did look to long, I added the fur cuffs almost straight away. They hide the anatomy of the arm he is probably as tall as my maneater figure so it actually helped to make his arms longer...
He reminds me of Hagrid from harry potter =] That would be a fun conversion.
hehe =] Angry rats
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Mykillm
Ambitious Upstart
this time 2 will pass
Posts: 101
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Post by Mykillm on Nov 9, 2005 8:11:42 GMT 12
;D Looking very nice keep it up ! (my sort of eye candy )
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Nov 9, 2005 8:25:42 GMT 12
You haven't seen the half of it! We were admiring Dustan's work last night over a few games in my garage.
The conversions look great and he definitely needs to post some photos of his 'surprise' Gnoblar work...absolutely hilarious and very nicely executed...personally I can't wait to see them painted!
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Post by dustand on Nov 9, 2005 8:39:42 GMT 12
Paint, sculpt, convert, Paint, sculpt, convert, Paint, sculpt, convert, Paint, sculpt, convert, pai.... clank clank cough splutter splutter I have to move home soon so the machines gunna get turned off for a few days =.[ I'm scared... hold me on the upside I am getting a garage and a workshop and I am gunna build shelves to house ALL my figures =] some how I think my productivity will go up if I am being stared at by 2000 pairs of eyes =]
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Nov 9, 2005 10:20:39 GMT 12
2000 pairs of staring eyes made me thing of HP Lovecraft's Shoggoths for some reason Shelves...oh yes I need some of them too
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Post by Slipher on Nov 11, 2005 17:10:12 GMT 12
i like that leadbelcher
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Post by dustand on Nov 14, 2005 9:33:28 GMT 12
I started painting over the weekend =] I have (I feel) nailed the ogre skin =] its realy quite easy once you pre mix a heap of the base colour =] sorry these pics arent the best and they might be the last for a little while... I am going to be finishing at the Massey computer labs and have got a couple full time jobs lined up (fingers crossed) a camera will be first on my list (after wargaming tables) Moving house tomorrow =] yay Most finished =] (skin took about 90 minutes) I got 8 figures at about this stage =]
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Nov 14, 2005 10:16:40 GMT 12
Any ink washing involved? Or just multiple painted layers of thinned paint? Do look good. Nice and unhealthy. Almost a zombish tone (at least in the photo) but not as putridly green.
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Post by dustand on Nov 14, 2005 12:24:26 GMT 12
The colouring is similar to the OK book. I started by mixing a 50/50 mix of shadow grey and graveyard earth. I did this into a cleaned out paint pot (bugger paying $3 for an empty pot) I picked up some disposable (yeah right) syrenges from the chemmist and measured 4ml of each colour and 3 ml of water (I call it Ogre Flesh). Give it a good shake and you have saved yourself a big job each time you go to base coat a model... I applied this over a satin black undercoat (cheaper the GW spray but you have to paint black over black areas unless you want them shiny which is cool for polished boots).
next step is to lighten the base colour with Kommando Khaki, I use a 33/66 mix (ogre flesh/Kommando Khaki)for this. I am going to make another pre mix after I move. the trick with the ogres is to almost use this second mix like a base coat and paint right up to the edges of the recesses, I water this step as I go and usually add more water towards the edges of the recess.
the third and final step is, for me, komando khaki. GW say take it to highlights with of bleached bone but I found it a BIG colour jump from the first two steps. Use KK so its watered down, about 66/33 (KK/water) and ONLY added to the big flat areas of the muscles and with and only (well mostly) to the underside and nipple area on their saggy ogre titties.
The colouring is actually a little out in those pictures the KK actually comes out closer to rotting flesh with a brown tinge rather than green, i dunno if the green is fron the trees out side or a after taste of the base colour... In life they look a little more blueish grey but they are quite pallid.
I would use this colour for zombie flesh but I would add in two thinned washes, one purple and wone green. just to realy get that rotting look in their.
As i have indicated no washes were used on them and i dont intend to. I like the ease of washes but have only ever been able to make them work on evil models and lacqured Armour. Also it fits into the shift in style that i am trying to develop. As I have probably mention I want to paint models more as a display quality, after painting the orks there is little more I can learn about painting to a basic game standard.
I decided not to use NMM on the ogres and have fallen back to the trusty 3 steps of Black/base of Tin Bitz/highlight of chainmail. I try and get my push to seperate into lots of little points as it creates a little more motion and randomness to the highlight. another neat tip is watered down metalics lose some of their shine. This muted chainmail with pure chainmail gives it a slight texture and makes it look like 4 coats of paint as opposed to 3.
I have decided with the ogres i wont be lightening colours with white and instead will be using Kommando Khaki. It preserves the original colour better than white and allows for easier transitions.
So Kommando Khaki is the new white =]
Pants colours are going to be what I feel like at the time. The bull units will have a other army appearance to go with the merc troop theme the Ironguts will have richer colours to show they been working the trade for a long time and have been silks and fine tactiles as part payment =]
Its one of the first armies i will be painting without some sort of uniform scheme to seperate the units.
As for war paint I am thinking of ecapsulating a small part of my cultural background into them and giving them Mokos. This will of course be one of the final steps and I might have to find the smallest brush available and practise (alot) on exra heads...
Thats how it is in my head at the moment anyway.
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Post by dustand on Nov 14, 2005 12:26:16 GMT 12
Oh yeah, I can paint the skin on 2 ogres in about an hour now... its by far the hardest part to get right. and since they are 50% flesh its worth getting right
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Post by PitYak Studios on Nov 14, 2005 12:29:40 GMT 12
very nice. I like the metalwork in particular
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Nov 14, 2005 13:24:53 GMT 12
Interesting. I look forward to seeing them in the flesh (ugh, except maybe for their 'ogre titties' . I dislike Skull White as a 'lightener' as well. I religiously use Bleached Bone these days to lighten colours and K. Khaki to lighten browns tones. And Skull White is just damned white to use as a realistic highlight as well. Certainly no skull I've ever seen is that colour! K. Khaki is a useful colour but suffers a little from being too watery straight out of the pottle in my experience. It's a bit like the GW yellows in terms of bad pigment coverage. Bleached Bone is a much more opaque paint straight off the bat. Mixing your own colours is definitely handy. I have a couple of custom mixes in pottles on my paint station. A dark flesh tone and a 50/50 tin bitz/brass mix.
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