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Post by PitYak Studios on Jul 29, 2005 21:47:45 GMT 12
Certainly don't want to embarass that poster further but I feel that this is an important point.
It's really, really hard to "do something wrong" in this hobby. As I said in many moons ago, most of us are probably in this for our own benefit or amusment.
If you do someting and it works, great. If you do something and it doesn't work, no hassle, I'll do it differently next time.
An old cliched saying goes "you learn form you mistakes" and there ain't nothing truer. You only learn what works and what doesn't by having a go.
I've read tips on this forum of all places that start "I've never tried this but I've heard it works..." and that's what this is all about - sharing information.
So get out there (or stay in to be more honest) and try stuff. If it works, let us know, if it doesn't, let us know even sooner, and most of all, don't discount your own advice even if you consider yourself a noob or beginner or whatever
model on!
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Post by dustand on Jul 30, 2005 2:39:08 GMT 12
Scariest thing I ever tried was chucking plastic models into a tin of solvent that was labeled Acetone. They didnt melt but now I doubt it was acetone... anyone tried this ? BTW it did eat the toothbrush I used to scrub them. probably should have tested it on sprue first.
I used to shade yellow with orange ink, it gave what I felt the imperial eagle yellow, sort of a semi luminusfeel =] looked OK but I dont really do it anymore (I might though, if I ever stop avoiding yellow)
I have a unit of 10 Imperial rough riders that I started shaving off the future details so I could make kislevite pistoleers for my empire army... I started on 3 and they look rubish... I am hoping I dont end up scraping the idea but OH GOD are the looking rubbish.
I glued kroot rifle stock onto the helmet of the nob of this months Slugga boyz for the contest, it kinda looks a bit samurai and a little bit insect.... DONT make me explain myself on this one =]
certainly a few of the weirder things i have done... (some of them real recent too.
Oh yeah and before I started using modeling putty I just put bluetack into model games and coated it with superglue. not recomended... AT ALL =]
I think I am going to stop listing silly things I have tried, just incase I remember the really embarasing things. things I am trying to block out.
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Post by PitYak Studios on Jul 30, 2005 8:59:31 GMT 12
I used to shade yellow with orange ink. I do that. An old Citadel journal actually suggested that, for adding mutations to skaven if i remember rightly. |
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Post by Aaron on Jul 30, 2005 9:58:51 GMT 12
Hmm I've had good success using blu-tak to fill holes on models. Sure its not as good as putty but I definately found it worked better than leaving a gap altho I've heard PVA is actually quite useful for this too.
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Post by burbsee on Jul 30, 2005 10:45:06 GMT 12
i have ever only used greenstuff to fill gaps in my models.dustan said he dont undercoat sometimes i have never heard of that before GW makes it sound almost criminal not to undercoat.but what the hell my try it . have you ever tried undercoating 60 warriors of minis tirith by hand  i have not touched them since it was so boring with nearly ever model the same i cant begin to think what it will be like to basecoat them in a nicy shiny coat of silver .i never tried the spray undercoat till recently and now worship the stuff.saves so much time. |
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Post by burbsee on Jul 30, 2005 10:46:48 GMT 12
hey i dont really mind feel free  ;D ;D ;D |
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Post by dustand on Jul 30, 2005 11:48:41 GMT 12
none of the plastic orks in Wargh Ardtoof have been undercoated. My reason for not doing it is much the same as what you found, BORING. =] and I am cheap so I dont like splashing out on spray that is good enough to not melt my models. If I am painting someone elses figures I always undercoat (durability). I think I am going to start calling bluetac and superglue 'Protoputty' for prototyping. Before checking this post and finding out WD said that its ok (I wonder if they still think that ?) I used protoputty to make a 15mm palm tree out of sprue pityak.proboards40.com/index.cgi?board=howto&action=display&thread=1122613772&page=1Do you think GW will ever again be creative and inovative enough to surgest or recomend using products as cheap as protoputty, I hope so, Its that kind of ingenuity that makes me think they might have a kiwi in their midst. YAY! Number 8! |
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Jul 30, 2005 13:48:49 GMT 12
I'm a little anal about preparing figures. They all get assembled and then usually get a soapy warm water bath and scrub before I white spray prime them with GW's 'Skull White' spray. It's just that it takes me so long to paint anything I wanna make damned sure the paint stays on afterwards! I was introduced to spray prime about 3 years ago and haven't used anything since. It's great stuff for plastics. For metals it's ok...although I've seen had paint chips 'fleck' off a spray primed figure when it's dropped on a concrete garage floor  . I suspect car primers might work better on the metal figures. |
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Post by karanadon on Jul 31, 2005 9:22:15 GMT 12
I always use a matt black spray which is extreamly cheap ($3-4) BUT it works well covers evenly doesnt block detail at all if you use it properly, I got it from Super cheap auto if anyone wants to try it..... its called 'Australian Export'
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Post by dustand on Jul 31, 2005 9:27:14 GMT 12
Sweet, I been looking for a cheap black spray that is matt and tested on models, nothing worse than cheap sprays that Blister plastic
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Post by burbsee on Jul 31, 2005 10:15:48 GMT 12
i use citadel chaos black .i heard that some sprays blister your plastic so to start of i decided i would play it safeand get the hang of it before i tried th cheaper stuff.a friend uses warhouse spray paintthat blisters if you do it to thick so he just does very light coats that stuff from super cheap sounds like the way to go though
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Post by burbsee on Jul 31, 2005 10:17:42 GMT 12
i think that he uses the spray on chaos models to acheive a bubbled blistered look though not sure
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Post by c0d3monk33 on Jul 31, 2005 11:05:48 GMT 12
For terrain I always use a 'Spray Kote' flat black enamel spray can and bang it on reasonably thick. It really helps seal the terrain before painting and sticks any loose gravel etc. down. Also a black spray prime works to hide and cracks or details your drybrushing misses. Nothing worse than bits of white plaster peeking out! It's not that cheap though...about $12 from Mitre 10 I think. Lasts a while though.
I've wondered about trying this stuff on the figures but haven't yet...
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Post by dustand on Jul 31, 2005 13:17:12 GMT 12
Spreykote white undercoat gives a better undercoat than skull white, I would never pony up for GW white. but spraykote give an almost 'dry' flat paper finish that holds paint perfectly and gives brighter white and brighter colours.
Shake well though and since your pedantic about model prep you should never get the hairy finish, If you dont shake well it will go on a bit lumpy, like blistering but not hurting the model, its in the paint only... Newer cans dont have this problem but after a year of storage it can happen infrequently.
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Post by PitYak Studios on Jul 31, 2005 20:06:52 GMT 12
I've just found a new spray for plastics. The can had garden furniture on the front, and I figure since garden furniture is flexible plastic, I'll give it a go on my plastics. Just painted a regiment of infantry today, so we'll see how that goes.
And I'm pretty anal about prep too, usually spend as long prepping as I do painting
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i have not touched them since it was so boring with nearly ever model the same i cant begin to think what it will be like to basecoat them in a nicy shiny coat of silver .i never tried the spray undercoat till recently and now worship the stuff.saves so much time.
. I suspect car primers might work better on the metal figures.